Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Big Run Up The Chesapeake, Home Tomorrow!!
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Hello Norfolk, Chesapeake Bay Tomorrow!!
Monday, April 19, 2010
Across the Albermarle We Go
We departed about 8am with a brisk northery wind and sailed where we could until the canal turned north. In the sheltered canal, and with no tidal currents we made great time. Once we popped out into the Alligator River, it was much too early to anchor, so we elected to continue on and cross the Albermarle Sound and anchor in the North River on the other side. This allows us to make a much shorter run into Norfolk tomorrow and signals the last long day of the voyage home: we did 75 miles today. This means 60 miles to Norfolk tomorrow, then about 50 to Deltaville and another 50 or so to home. Yeeha.
We are currently anchored in Broad Creek off the southern end of the North River. It is a very protected anchorage in a narrow creek so the wind will not bother us at all, and there are no currents to worry about. The sun set in beautiful fashion, and then there was that golden moment. For those not familiar with the term "golden moment", it is a term that comes from Australia. The golden moment is that small passage of time between when the flies stop buzzing and the mosquitos descend.
The plan was to fire up the barbee on the stern rail and grill some sausages. When I got out there, the greeting committee from Phylum Insecta Macrobita was waiting. Luckily we had put up the screens on our enclosure, so after sounding the retreat and once inside, it was ok. Sausages pan fried on the stove worked.
Forecasts are for some rain for the next few days, but winds moderate from the south at 10-15, so we should be able to hoist sails out of Norfolk and enjoy our Chesapeake Bay and give the motor a rest.
Rob
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Flying Through North Carolina: Wrightsviulle Beach to Morehead City and then on to Belhaven
Friday, April 16, 2010
North Carolina
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
South Carolina: The Low Country
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Georgia: Mud, 7 foot tides, An Alligator, and Banjo Music
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Trek On North Continues
We started north just as the tide turned, so we had a 1 to 2 knot current against us, which limited our progress. Once the wind started to fill in, we hoisted sail and motored sailed, adding about a knot. There were several bridges, but these sequenced nicely, and we passed through some very scenic waterfront communities around Palm Shores. Then the radio failed. Hmmm. Actually, the radio on the nav station in the cabin was working normally, but the command mike at the helm would transmit, but not receive. This became evident when hailing for a bridge opening but not receiving any reply. The annoying part was that the fault was intermittent.
By early afternoon, Rob was drooping badly so he headed below for a nap and Fisul took command for the next few hours. Not only did she live up to her title as "The Chosen One" by commanding the tides to change and pick us up from 5.5 to 7 kts SOG, she also dismantled the command mike connection, and put it back together, restoring our radio communications. Ain't it great to be both smart and pretty?
By 5pm we had made it to St Augustine with one last bridge opening to negotiate. This was the Bridge of Lions, which has been under repair since last fall, and has a reputation for closing down all together and stranding people on either side for indeterminate periods of time. We were assured that it was operating now, and listened as a fellow cruiser on a sailboat named Nightingale (who we had been travelling with for the past 2 days), missed the opening by a minute, forcing them to hold station for a half hour to await the next opening. In that period we caught up, and joined the circling awaiting the next opening.
The bridge keeper had a heavy accent which we picked as Chinese, or at least generic oriental. The big clue came when we radioed asking why the bridge was not opening on time, and received the reply, "sprans struck crosed". Oh boy. More circling. At this point, Great Escape and Nightingale had struck up some radio banter that increasingly involved planning a happy hour rendezvous. Finally, after about 45 minutes wait, the sprans miraculously became unstruck, we passed through, docked and proceeded to a very nice happy hour including meeting another boater from our home port of Solomons. Amazing how a few struck sprans can improve your rattitude.
Georgia tomorrow, and under 700 miles left to go to get to Norfolk!!!!!
Rob
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
We're Back and Sailing North
Luckily for us, and, by the way, we pride ourselves on being really lucky people (that way you can bypass having to be smart all the time), the GPS was restored, and the only real damage was the fans which are now permanently fused in the full on position. It could have been drastically worse. We took the boat out and motored it around and tested everything, and, with everything apparently working, made preparations to cast off and high-tail it north this morning.
We left at 7am and headed up the ICW with a nice SE breeze starting at 10kts and building through the day. Our first education was the Eau Gaille bridge, which, we found, rejoiced in the local pronunciation of "Oh Golly Bridge". I'm not making this up. This section involves the Cape Canaveral area, and we blasted through motor sailing, and hitting over 7 kts as the breeze filled in. There was a small convoy of sailboats heading north, punctuated by the occasional obnoxious power boat with the big wake to destroy the basically flat seas of the ICW. It was a great run north, making 79 miles to past Ponce de Leon Inlet by 6pm. We tied up at Inlet Harbor Marina on the floating dock in front of their restaurant. The live music was really......loud. Butchery of the oldies classics seems to be a feature of one-man-bands supported by a karaoke machine. For anyone to have the arrogance to think that they can cover Mick Jagger, John Lennon, the Beach Boys and Neil Young, is an amazing tribute to small time ego. Actually, some of it was ok....NOT. Nonetheless, a very pleasant spot and nice sunset.
Tomorrow, the forecast is for more wind, so we will stay inside and target St Augustine.
Despite all the travails, it is great to be back on the boat and heading back home.
Rob
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Lightning Strike Alert!!!!
First, we got a bit tingly, then the fans that I had recently installed, all came on at full speed. Weird we think? Then we tried to turn the fans off, and they would not, they remained stuck on high speed. Then it dawned on us that we had been hit by lightning, or at least were in an induction zone around the strike. Holy schmidt, Wanda!!
I then did a survey of our electrical systems: motor, fine, started and ran, tick, radio, fine, tick, instruments, fine, tick, GPS, dead as a door nail. Double doo doo. So, it looks like we will need to enlist an electronics guy when we return to fix the GPS so that our chart plotter will work. Oh boy, more unexpected expenses!! As far as the fans are concerned, oh well, maybe just turn them on and off using the side circuits for the port and starboard reading lights until I get around to replacing them.
More fun and games.
Rob
Change of Plans
We will return to Melbourne on April 6th, and will cast off the next day to continue the push north.
Rob
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Medical Day Off
We pulled into Fort Pierce late and tied up at the fuel dock of a marina for the night. The tidal range here was larger than advertised and resulted in having to get up and readjust lines during the night. We pulled out of Fort Pierce at 7:30am aiming for a big run north in overcast conditions and light rain. The ICW from here goes down a wide lagoon called Indian River, and the bridges are either 65 ft clearance or are low bridges that open on demand, so it was a breeze compared to the day before. Strong winds and rain were forecast, but by 10am, the skies cleared, the wind was 10-15 on the beam, so we hoisted sails and motor sailed along at 6-7 kts. Pretty soon a convoy of sailboats heading north became apparent, as we listened as they called in for bridge openings ahead and behind us. Seems quite a few people are joining us in heading home.
By about 2pm, we were in Melbourne and progressing nicely, when Phyllis prepared a snack of hummus and flat bread. She went back down the companionway, slipped and fell, banging her head and elbow on the stainless steel grab bar. This was a freak accident, since it was completely calm conditions. I kind of panicked since she looked very pale, had a nasty knock on the head and couldn't move her arm so I feared a break and concussion. We immediately radioed the nearest marina requesting a slip and docked, and got a taxi to the nearest hospital to check her out at the emergency room.
You know how hospitals are. You wait and wait and wait. Amazingly we were processed by a guy who fast tracked us when he heard we were boaters (note to self, always refer to one's self as boaters, not boat people). Bottom line, after CT scan and x-rays, no serious damage or breaks, but she will be sore, so they said for her to lay low for a day before continuing the journey. So, we had a day off today doing a walking tour of historic Melbourne, an excellent lunch at Matt's Casbah (we give it 4 stars), and a rather too long trek to Walmart for more provisions.
The zinger was the 3 hour visit to the emergency room resulted in a bill for $8,000. If you want to know what is out of control with our medical system, that is it, no cost controls. When I asked for an itemized accounting, and for the results of the CT and x-rays, they could not provide either but still wanted to be paid, and gave a number to call to request these items. Of course the insurance will pay and will reduce the bill, but it is ridiculous that through the whole process of 90% waiting, 5% testing, 4% billing and admission and paperwork, that the time of actual diagnosis was 1%, and that was seeing the doctor's assistant (we never actually saw the doctor). Needless to say, I will be going on the rampage over this. What fun.
Tomorrow we head north to Titusville, then New Smyrna Beach, where we may have to wait for the weather. The Bridge of Lions at St Augustine is closed for repair, which means we need to go outside from Ponce de Leon Inlet up to St Augustine, about 56 miles outside, and current forecasts when we get there are for strong northerlies, which is not good news. Still the forecasts have been predictably inaccurate lately, so we journey north in hope. Once to St Augustine, we are just about out of Florida!!!
Rob
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Great Escape Escapes North
To elaborate- we cast off from Coconut Grove at 7:30 this morning and planned a run to Lake Worth, some 60 odd miles, no biggie. When we realized it took 1.5 hours to make it through the Miami harbor and out to the turning point north at the end of Government Cut, it dawned that full cycle planning had not occurred. Add that 1.5 hours to the 10 planned, and there was no way to make it before dark. Of cource realization and gung ho optimism are not necessarily the brothers of rational thought, so....go for it.
We unfurled sails and blasted north off Miami beach and were making a good 6+ kts but a southerly current bopped a knot off of us. By the time we made it to Fort Lauderdale, and even though we got a boost on the tide change, it was obvious that Lake Worth as a target was dodgy as a prospect before dark. Memo to self: Robo does not see in the dark worth schmidt. Get in before that. So, we ducked in at Hillsboro inlet and did about 10 bridges to get us into north Palm Beach and a nice anchorage adjacent to the ICW. Great dinner on board of Tilapia and caesar salad sloshed down with a cold bottle of Prosecco. The life of a mariner is rough. Arrrgh.
Side note- The Florida bridge keepers can be power freaks. Some open their bridges on the hour and half hour, some every fifteen minutes, others on demand, and every permutation of that sequence. If you miss a scheduled opening, you simply have to wait the 15, 30 or even 60 minutes until the next opening. This is why you go like warp speed between bridges to try to not miss a scheduled opening.
The trick you develop is to try to con the bridge keeper into to holding the spans open that extra few minutes that will allow our over-heating diesel to propel us through the bridge. We figured out the best way to do this is to enlist a female voice over the radio. Ok, you say, no fair with the sex thing. Well, if it saves you half an hour of having to hold station in a 3 knot current that is trying to force you into a rock abutment, then, well, so be it.
Of course Phyllis was up to this task, mastering the VHF radio protocol and managing to place amazing charm into the sugar-sweet southern accent thing. The charm of this was getting spans held open way beyond where a male voice would be able to do. Now you know how we can knock off 14 bridges in less than half a day.
Yoo hoo!!
Tomorow, try to make Fort Pierce, inside or out side or whatever. The weather forecast will dictate.
Cheers, Rob
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Basking in the Sun in Miami
Prior to arriving yesterday, we spent the night at Sunset Cove on Key Largo. The forecast called for southerly winds clocking around to the west during the evening with the possibility of late thunderstorms. We picked a nice cosy spot that was sheltered from both the south and west, dropped anchor and tucked in for the night.
At about 11pm, the wind picked up to 20 plus and was whistling through the rigging, the rain poured down and the sky lit up with a lightning show that was at first breathtaking and then became down right frightening. With the simultaneous crack-booms all around us, the wind shifted to the northeast, and our anchor tried to reset, and tried, and tried. There were several other boats at anchor, and everyone was starting to move and drag. By midnight the wind moderated, the rain stopped and the storm had passed, but we were still just holding at anchor. So not much sleep. Then at 3am, more wind and we start to drag again. The weed there makes for poor holding, and you have to wait for a sandy spot for the anchor to grab. So, we sat anchor watch until practically dawn. Not much sleep that night.
The morning was cloudy and rain predicted but a nice northeaster at 15 kts. We left for Miami at about 8am, and after clearing the keys into Barnes Sound, we hoisted sails, turned off the engine and romped along nicely at around 6 kts in on a tight reach up Card Sound and into Biscayne Bay. Nice to have the boat moving so well. The wind dropped to 10kt and then started fading as we got to Miami. We booked into Dinner Key Marina in Coconut Grove which is very nice, has a massive docking facility and you can walk along the shoreline which is dotted with restaurants and bars and lots of boats to look at.
We cast off tomorrow morning with the plan of heading outside to avoid all the bridges on the ICW, and are targeting coming back inside tomorrow night at Lake Worth. Hopefully the wind will cooperate and be a bit stronger than forecast so we can sail that leg. Otherwise we will need to motor to make it before dark.
Got a message from Pete today- they made it home to Kitty Hawk with lots of adventures to tell. I hope he can get them all on the blog as soon as he rests up and recovers!!
Rob
Sunday, March 21, 2010
We Are Underway!!!!
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Lady I in Georgia/Great Escape on Liftoff Countdown
Life at Marathon Marina continues on. Big party tomorrow night to christen the new exercise room. Great idea to have a party, I mean free beer and hot dogs work for me, but an exercise room? Most of the people around here gave up exercising 20 years ago, and look like they subscribe to the giant sloth physical fitness program. My kind of folks. Hey Fred, you look as fat as a manatee, ha, ha. So what, I have a sizeable investment in this beer gut. Ah, banter!!
Good news on the home front, daughter Kathlene got her visa and is off to her new job in England this weekend, which means I get my wife/little buddy crew member back. We should be off by Sunday I'm hoping. The weather is steadily improving so I'm hoping to have the sails up whenever possible, and will will try to day trip it outside to avoid all the Florida bridges. Let's home the weather continues to improve.
Rob
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Thursday, March 11, 2010
The Trek Home Begins!!!!
I arrived this afternoon, about a day behind Pete and his new crewmember, John. The weather in Marathon has been cool, windy and yuckie while we were gone, and turned nice yesterday. As a result, Pete and John elected leave this afternoon and see how far they could go on the outside, with Charleston being the initial target, about a 5 day ride. They left about 3 pm with 2-3 ft seas, the wind 15-25 out of the SE and a hard beat out to the Gulf Stream ahead of them. Once there, the wind should moderate and swing south, which should sling-shot them around Key Largo, and continue to push them north on a broad reach and then beam reach as the wind clocks to the west ahead of the next weather system.
Since my child bride is still attending to matters on the home front, I will be the lone Florida Keys intrepid reporter until she returns and we select our weather window to depart. Watch this space for more riviting news of life in Marathon marina. Actually, the manatee was back today along with it's baby- or probably teenager- these suckers look like they have spent up big at MacDonald's and obviously do not spend much time working out. I look at them floating at the surface, hardly moving, and only raising their heads up to take a breath of air about once a minute, and I think, gee, what a life, I could do that!! The wonders of nature are such an inspiration.
Rob
Friday, February 26, 2010
We have been silent for a few days because we have been very busy. When we last blogged, we were heading for Cudjoe Channel and Tarpon Belly Key. We had birds land on us, fish jump off the hook just as they were coming aboard, and lots of wind and rain. On Monday afternoon, in our approach to Tarpon Belly we realized that there would be no shelter from the wind in any anchorage around that key. So we moved on farther down Kemp Channel that happens to be behind the Naval Station Key West Blimp base. We found a very shallow spot to anchor that was tucked up close to land that was almost calm while the top of the masts saw over 30 miles per hour winds. Anchored and rafted together, we made preparations for dinner. Upon completion of dinner, we fired up a movie (STAR TREK).
We awoke to NO wind and No clouds and glorious sun. The water was so clear it looked like a window. Rob and Pete went for a swim and cleaned sides and inspected all underwater gear. After lunch we got underway and Rob broke out his new Spinnaker. With mild winds he demonstrated the operation of his Cruising Spinnaker. Pictures show the product. By hauling down on the tack, the luff can be tightened sufficiently to go to windward, and by easing off, the sail will reach or run---cool. By late afternoon we anchored close to Big Pine Key that was less than 3 hours from our marina in Marathon. Having kept our slips in Marathon, we had the option of running for cover when the weather turned. And Turn it Did.
We awoke on Wednesday morning and with nearly calm winds we motored into the marina. No sooner had we tied up in the slip, the rain and winds started. This storm was to be a 24-36 hour blow of over 35 knots. The whole night was a ride, even at the pier. I cannot imagine what those souls still in the anchorage must have gone through.
This ends our Shallow Water Florida Keys training phase. When we started, last Sunday, we picked our way through 7 and 8 foot depths with concern for sudden changes. However after our education on navigation in the keys and understanding of how to deal with 3 and 4 foot bottoms, we were making short cuts and charting new places to explore. On our exit from Cudjoe Channel, we learned that the Tarpon Belly Key had a glorious beach and would have been a wonderful visit in warmer weather. However, this has been the coldest winter in the keys in 40 years (according to some expert here). We all will depart today for home and when we return, we shall be making plans for our return North.
Stay tuned for the next adventure!
Pete
Monday, February 22, 2010
The Keys - Sailing and Thin Water
Friday, February 19, 2010
A Boater's Work Is Never Done
Monday, February 15, 2010
Another Pedestrian Day in Paradise
We had to return the car to the Marathon Airport by 12:30, which we did, and then the big blogworthy moment: we said, hey, let's walk back to the marina!! OK, you say, what is the big deal? Well, the walk back is about 6 miles. No biggie, we thought, we will take it easy and browse our way back, checking out all the shops and other establishments of interest (that is politically correct lingo for Tiki Bars). Hey, why not, it's 5 o'clock somewhere, to coin a completely original phrase???
The first thing to note is that Marathon is a really long island and very narrow, so everything is located on the highway that joins Key West to the mainland. By walking down this road, you get to see everything. Lots of old private motels, several of which advertise "the cleanest rooms in paradise", which is probably a clue to the major issue of staying there. Lots of old, non-chain restaurants. We stopped for lunch at Stout's, excellent BLT of 4 bucks. Lots of boarded up ex-businesses. Hard to tell if they'd been that way due to the recession, the last hurricane, or the one before.
After lunch we passed Luanne's Wine and Cheese Bar. Ah, temptation. Remembering that without temptation, there is no virtue, we lingered at the door, smelling the roses so to speak- and virtue was triumphant!! Keep walking, one mile down and 5 to go. After several shop stops, totally unmemorable, more boiling oil and rats, we passed the Brass Monkey. More bloody virtue. I'm beginning to think, if I keep this up, I can probably run for public office, take a bunch of bribes and kickbacks, and retire to the Keys- such are the rewards of virtue. Deja Vu, what is going on here, we are stopping at Barnacle Barney's Tiki Bar on the bay side for a libation.
Now the hard reality sets in. Wearing flip-flops and Crocs (respectively), we had not exactly feathered our walking nest. Once settled into that nice comfy bar stool, cold adult beverage of choice in hand, we realized that the feet were not exactly in shape for the Olympics. Also we realized that despite our advancing years, we were the youngest people there. The Tiki Bar was next to the pool, and the acres of wrinkled flesh and bloated abdomens was a sight that should make the front page of some medical journal on geriatrics. There are a lot of really old people in Florida. They should change the motto from "The Sunshine State", to "The State of Wrinklies: where the young serve the old". One drink, and we are gone.
Luckily Porky's Tiki Bar was just down the road. Hard a-starboard into this delightful step back in time. With the wafting aroma of various pork products being gloriously smoked, we sat down again to sip yet another adult beverage and contemplate how to navigate the last half mile back to the marina. Two problems: 1) the feet did not want to move, and 2) we had to cross the highway to get back to the marina. One and two did not represent a symbiotic relationship, particularly considering that we had about four bags of purchased loot that we were carrying, and several drinks under the belt.
While #1 was not life threatening, #2 definitely was. It was now after 5pm and the traffic was pretty much non-stop going both ways, and of course, there is not a single protected cross walk for miles: you just pick your moment and run like heck hoping to outpace Detroit's finest in threading the needle. Under normal circumstances this would be a stressful event. But after a few key West Lagers, piece of cake. While we actively debated whether it was better to look-and-run, or, not-look-and-run, a very nice gap appeared allowing us to stroll across. Like I said, piece of cake. The good Lord looks after fools and drunks, so I guess we must qualify somewhere in that continuum.
One last note- the weather is still chilly, 50s and 60s, but at least the wind has abated today and it is nice to not be rocking around and getting rained on. Paradise has it's moments. Life has it moments. Great if you can connect the dots.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Dinghy Day
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Wind, Wind and more Wind
With the dawn, the wind did not abate and with the evening actually started backing to the west again, so back to the grinding again. The one interesting note was that the people here who are waiting for their weather window to make the crossing to the Bahamas are getting excited. The idea is that once this storm blows through, they will have their long awaited weather window to make the crossing. The normally quiet docks thus transformed into people on a mission. Provisioning, trips to Costco for frozen stuff, canvas work and all the stuff that had been blown off now becomes a priority. Hey!!! What happened to that rule about it being illegal to be in a hurry when you are in the Keys????
The lift off window will be this Friday, so it will be very interesting to patrol the docks and see who goes and who stays. The Passage Weather website predicts a very narrow corridor between the current storm, and the one that follows. Still, these people have been here for a while (2 months), and it seems to be getting personal. More on the drama as it unfolds.
Pete is off on a family vacation skiing in the Rockies, although going to Maryland could be a similar experience. We had planned to head back around this time to close on the property we are trying to purchase, but the record snow falls have made it impossible for all the inspections to be completed, so we are delayed, and remain here in the wind and relative warmth. Normally the Keys at this time of year enjoy temperatures around 75. At the moment it is in the 50's and 60's, so, like I say, it is all relative.
Monday, February 8, 2010
Lazy Weekend and Road Trip
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Marina Life in Marathon- Friday February 5th
The marina is populated with about 100 boats with many as transient cruisers like us. They all stop to chat and exchange boat stories, where they are from, and how (like us) they stopped here for an overnight and elected to stay a while. One guy has been here two years!!! That is not the norm however, most stay about 3 months. Everyone is very friendly and the cruisers all connect via VHF Channel 68 at 9am each morning to announce activities, organize parties, and swap stories.
So far we have been told in no uncertain terms that it is illegal in the Keys to be in a hurry. I was walking down to the shower and it took about an hour to get there due to all the stops for random conversation. Sunday is the Super Bowl, and everyone has been invited to Banana Bay to hang out and have a watching party.
Sundown is a ritual occasion. Several very gnarly dudes (they all look like retired members of the Grateful Dead) congregate at the end of the dock and blow conch trumpets as the golden orb descends and extinguishes in a green flash. The rest of us sit in the open air bar and toast the occasion with Key West lagers- very like the local Yeungling we enjoy in Maryland.
Saying this place is laid back does not do it justice- if time stopped these people would never know it. Our remark was, "so this is what retirement is all about!!" As they say, the problem with doing nothing is figuring out when you are done.
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Moored Marathon, FL
The pictures above are of the Manatee who lives in the marina, our boats, and the Sunset View of the Marina Restaurant.
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Miami to Key Largo
But we had to admit, this was a very nice stop....